Isola Comacina, Lake Como: the only island, seen from the water
A wooded ridge off Ossuccio, medieval ruins under the trees and a story that ended in flames in 1169. You can only get there by boat, which is exactly how it should be.
Isola Comacina is the only island on Lake Como. When I take guests into Tremezzina, this is how it comes into view: a long, low green ridge just off the shore at Ossuccio. Under the trees lie the remains of medieval churches, a seventeenth-century bell tower and a history that went up in flames in 1169. Today it is an archaeological park open from May to October, and the only way there is by boat.
How to get to Isola Comacina on Lake Como by boat
Heading south from the central lake towards Como, the shore opens up as soon as you round the Lavedo headland, and the island appears almost out of nowhere. From a distance it looks like a floating forest. As you get closer you pick out pale stone among the green and the bell tower of San Giovanni, which is the first thing your eye goes looking for.
Between the island and the shore there is a narrow, sheltered channel. The lake sounds different in there: less chop, more quiet, the engine echoing back off the bank. It's a stretch to take slowly, because this is where you understand why this rock was a fortress for centuries.
You can step ashore. The island is a stop on the Navigazione Laghi ferry network, and water taxis shuttle across from Ossuccio on the opposite shore. On our boat tours we cruise right around it; if you'd like to land and explore, just tell us when you book and we'll plan the day around it.
A short history of Isola Comacina
There was already a building here in Roman times, perhaps a villa or a shrine. In the early Middle Ages the island became a military, political and religious stronghold. The chronicles remember the Byzantine commander Francio, who held out here against the Lombards for a long time.
Then came the war between Como and Milan. The island sided with Milan, and in 1169 troops from Como, allied with Emperor Frederick Barbarossa, razed it to the ground. Legend has it that Bishop Vidulfo cursed the island: no more bells, no more stone laid on stone. For centuries it lay almost deserted.
Its revival came in the twentieth century. Excavations by Ugo Monneret de Villard in 1914 and by Luigi Mario Belloni between 1958 and 1978 brought the churches and walls back to light. In 1919 the island was bequeathed to King Albert I of Belgium, who handed it back to Italy; since 1920 it has been in the care of the Brera Academy in Milan.
What to see on Isola Comacina
- 01The Basilica of Sant'Eufemia
The heart of the archaeological park. The walls survive along with the crypt, which is the part that stays with most visitors.
- 02The church of San Giovanni Battista
Rebuilt in the 1600s, with its bell tower dating from 1670-75. Beneath the floor you can see a Roman marble colonnade. Restored and reconsecrated in 2008.
- 03Santa Maria col Portico and San Pietro in Castello
The remains of two medieval churches: the first enjoys a panoramic spot over the lake, the second was part of the old fortifications.
- 04The tower house and the walls
A medieval tower house, home and defence in one, plus stretches of wall that show how fiercely this patch of land was fought over.
- 05The Artists' Houses
Three rationalist houses designed by Pietro Lingeri and built in 1940 to host Italian and Belgian artists. Restored in 2009-2010, they now host residencies and exhibitions.
- 06The Antiquarium Museum in Ossuccio
On the shore opposite, inside the old Hospitalis de Stabio. It holds the finds from the island and is the best place to start: the island ticket includes the museum.
When to visit Isola Comacina: opening season and tickets
The island is open from May to the end of October. One ticket covers both the island and the Antiquarium Museum in Ossuccio. Opening hours, prices and facilities change from season to season, so always check the official website, isola-comacina.it, before you set off. As I write, the site says the restaurant, bar and toilets are closed, so bring your own water.
My favourite months are May, June and September. The light lasts, the woods are thick and the channel off Ossuccio shows its best colours.
On the Sunday closest to 24 June the island celebrates the feast of San Giovanni: a procession of boats, little lights floating on the water and fireworks that recall the fire of 1169. It's the night the stretch of lake in front of Ossuccio fills up with boats.
Places near Isola Comacina
On the Lavedo headland, a few minutes away by boat, stands Villa del Balbianello, with Lenno just beyond. On the Ossuccio shore, right opposite the island, is Villa Balbiano. Heading north you reach Tremezzo and Villa Carlotta, and across the lake lies Bellagio. The easiest way to see them all in one go is our Classic Lake Tour.
