Como, Italy: what to see in the lake's city, by boat
Arriving in Como from the water: the cathedral, the Tempio Voltiano, the funicular to Brunate and the old walled town. A captain's advice on doing it right.
Como is where Lake Como begins, or ends, depending on which way you're travelling. It sits at the bottom of the western branch, and it's the city I see most often over the bow. If you're wondering what to do in Como, Italy, here's how it looks from the water and what's worth your time once you step ashore.
Arriving in Como by boat
Heading south from the central lake, the branch narrows, the villas get closer together, and then the mountains part like a curtain. There's the city, low and spread along the water. The first thing you pick out is the cathedral dome rising over the rooftops.
On the breakwater facing Piazza Cavour stands Daniel Libeskind's steel sculpture Life Electric, a tribute to Alessandro Volta: two facing curves that echo his initials. From the boat you see it catch the light long before you arrive. To the right, among the lakefront trees, is the Tempio Voltiano, and above town the line of the funicular climbing to Brunate.
The lakefront is where you start on foot: the centre is a few minutes away. We'll agree on where to pull in depending on your plans for the day.
A short history of Como
The city began as a Roman one. In 59 BC Julius Caesar refounded it as Novum Comum, and you can still read the grid plan as you walk. Pliny the Elder and Pliny the Younger were born here; you'll find them carved either side of the cathedral door.
In 1127 Milan destroyed the town. Como rebuilt itself in 1158 with help from Frederick Barbarossa, along with new walls and big towers: Porta Torre is still standing. Later came silk, which became both a trade and an identity here. And then Alessandro Volta, inventor of the battery: in Como you'll find him everywhere, from the lakefront to the squares.
Things to do in Como, Italy: what to see
- 01Como Cathedral
Begun in 1396 and completed in 1740 with the dome designed by Filippo Juvarra. A Gothic front, Renaissance sides and a Baroque dome: more than three centuries of building in one place. Look for the two Plinys either side of the main door.
- 02The Broletto and the walled town
Next to the cathedral is the Broletto, the old town hall. Walking under its arches is the easiest way into the old centre. From there, wander the streets as far as the Basilica of San Fedele.
- 03Tempio Voltiano
On the lakefront, designed by Federico Frigerio with the Pantheon in mind and opened in 1928. Inside are Volta's instruments, papers and belongings. It's the most visited museum in town, and you can see why.
- 04The Brunate funicular
Running since 1894, it leaves from the lakefront and takes you up to about 700 metres in a few minutes. From up there, and even more from the Volta Lighthouse just above the village, the view runs from the city to the Alps and out over the plain. Seeing the lake from above after crossing it by boat puts the whole day in perspective.
- 05Sant'Abbondio and the Casa del Fascio
Two very different Comos: the Romanesque Basilica of Sant'Abbondio just outside the centre, and Giuseppe Terragni's Casa del Fascio, a landmark of Italian rationalist architecture. Architecture lovers should make the walk.
- 06Villa Olmo and its park
On the lake towards Cernobbio, with a historic park, gardens and fountains. From the water its pale façade is easy to spot.
Best time to visit Como
Como is a real city, so it's alive all year. My favourite months are spring and early autumn: April, May, June, September and October. The light is soft, there's less traffic on the water and walking is a pleasure. In high summer the centre gets busy, so head out early. In winter the lake is calm and the town feels more intimate. Opening times for museums and the funicular change with the seasons, so always check the official websites before you go.
Nearby places to reach by boat
From Como the lake opens up straight away. A few minutes out is Cernobbio with Villa d'Este, then Moltrasio. On the opposite shore are Torno and Villa Pliniana. Keep going and the branch takes you all the way to Bellagio, where the lake splits in two. We string these places together on the Full Day Dolce Far Niente, a whole day on Lake Como.
