Castello di Vezio, Varenna: the castle above Lake Como
The tower above Varenna, told by a captain who sees it from the water every day: how to walk up, what to see and when to go.
Castello di Vezio, Varenna's medieval castle (Vezio Castle, if you prefer), is the first thing I look for when I steer into the bay. A square tower on the headland, surrounded by olive trees, keeping watch over the middle of Lake Como for centuries. You come by boat to Varenna, then it's a twenty-minute walk uphill.
Castello di Vezio from the lake
Coming over from Bellagio or Menaggio, you pick it out early: the coloured houses of Varenna down by the water and, above them on the green hillside, the tower. From below it's obvious why they built it there: whoever stood guard could see the Lecco branch, the Como branch and the Tremezzina shore.
Below the village I always ease off the throttle so guests can look up. The question comes straight away: can we get up there? Yes, and you don't need to be a hiker.
Castello di Vezio, Varenna: how to get there by boat and on foot
The castle has no landing of its own, so you get off at Varenna. From the ferry pier walk straight into the lane opposite and after a few metres you reach the Montecodeno restaurant. Right beside it, on your left, the path to Vezio begins.
It's steep but short. The castle itself says under twenty minutes if you're fit, half an hour at an easy pace. Wear proper shoes and, in summer, take a break or two in the shade. The alternative is the Scabium path, which starts opposite Villa Monastero: about forty minutes, better views, but in full sun the whole way.
With our water taxi we drop you in Varenna, a few steps from the path; the public ferries use the same pier.
Castello di Vezio history in a nutshell
Local tradition links the castle to the Lombard queen Theodelinda, and the headland was already inhabited in the Iron Age: tombs from that period were found here in 1891. The stronghold was once joined to Varenna by two long arms of wall running down to the lake to protect the village.
In 1955 and 1956 the Greppi family rebuilt the castle, and during the works arrowheads, swords and helmets turned up. It still belongs to the Greppi family and the Counts Nicolis di Robilant: it's private, but since 1998, after a long restoration, it has been open to visitors.
What to see at Castello di Vezio
- 01The tower and the drawbridge
You cross a small drawbridge and climb all the way to the top. Inside there are weapons, clothing and armour from the Middle Ages; from the top the view goes all the way round, 360 degrees.
- 02The terrace above Varenna
You're right on the edge above the village. The Bellagio peninsula splits the lake: the Lecco branch on the left, the Como branch straight ahead. The point in the distance isn't Isola Comacina, as many people think, but the tip of Balbianello, with Villa Carlotta a little closer on the right.
- 03The olive grove and gardens
Probably the northernmost productive olive grove in the world, with Mediterranean plants at the foot of the Alps. The oil, a DOP Laghi Lombardi Lario, is sold at the ticket office.
- 04The Lariosaurus
A permanent exhibition on this extinct aquatic reptile, with casts of specimens found around Perledo and elsewhere in the world.
- 05The tunnels
An outpost of the Cadorna Line, 1915-1918, built against a possible invasion from the Menaggio side. Worn steps, and a few playful surprises inside.
- 06The ghosts of Vezio
White sculptures of gauze and plaster, made every summer by visitors who volunteer to hold a pose for about an hour. They stay in the castle until the winter snow wears them away.
Plenty of guides still mention the falconry shows: they were stopped for good after an act of vandalism in October 2022. Artù, a Eurasian eagle owl, lives in the courtyard; admire him from a distance.
When to visit Castello di Vezio
It's open every day from 1 March to 1 December; in winter only on weekends and public holidays when the weather is good. It may close when it rains. Opening times and tickets change through the year, so always check the official website before you set off. No booking needed.
My favourite months are April and May, then September and October: clear air, an easy climb, fewer people on the path. In July and August go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. On some summer evenings the castle stays open and lit up, with aperitivo on the terrace by reservation.
Places near Castello di Vezio
Right below the castle is Varenna, with its lakeside walk, Villa Monastero and Villa Cipressi and their gardens. A little further south is Fiumelatte, the milky-white stream Leonardo wrote about. Straight across the water lies Bellagio. You can see all of it in one go on our Classic Lake Tour, two hours around the central lake.
Classic Lake Tour
Want to see the Vezio tower the way I do, looking up from the water below Varenna? On the Classic Lake Tour we cruise past the village, and if you'd like to walk up to the castle, tell us when you book and we'll plan the stop together.